Fri, Mar 07, 2008
A Brief Travel Update #
I arrived in AddisAbaba this morning and am camped out at Sidama Lodge, a spacious and comfortable residential apartment just a few blocks from the IIE offices. I've got a few hours reprieve before meeting with the IIE staff here in Addis, then will hit the road once again for a few days to meet with the fellows here in Ethiopia. (MX8)
I've showered and shaved, and as PhilipMarlowe would say, I'm feeling almost human again. Actually, Marlowe would have had two cups of coffee before saying that. I haven't had any coffee yet, even though it was offered, and Ethiopia is the coffee capital of the world. I'm not a coffee drinker, but coffee is an important part of the culture here, and I plan on imbibing frequently. (MX9)
Internet access in the hotel is very good, which I find delightful, all the more because it irks CherylFrancisconi, who has been waiting for months for me to experience the pain that is Internet connectivity here in Ethiopia. She has threatened to force me to spend a day using the Internet at her house, and I'm quite certain she means to follow through. (MXA)
My net access has been poor to none this past week, which partially explains the lack of updates here. Although I've been taking copious notes and have several posts outlined, the reality is that even if Internet access had been good, I wouldn't have posted much. (MXB)
The experience so far has been incredible and overwhelming. I spent five intense days meeting with reproductive health leadership fellows, learning about their work and challenges and getting to know them as people. This alone would have been enough to put me out of commission for a week. Add to that the packed schedule, the long travel, and the many, many new experiences, and you can why I'm not quite up-to-date with my blog posts. (MXC)
It will take me weeks to process everything I've experienced thus far. Some things are starting to hit me, though. While taking a long, hot shower this morning, I started thinking about what happened this past week, and I was overcome with emotion. I'm not going to go into a lot of details now. Maybe people will understand as I start posting the rest of my stories about India. But I'll leave you with this teaser. (MXD)
My thesis has always been that we, as a society, have collectively forgotten much of what we once knew about collaboration. We need to remember those things, and then we need to get even better at doing them if we're to have any chance at grappling with the urgent, complex problems we're facing today. The remembering process starts on the ground with small, diverse groups spread out across the world. It starts by tapping into their knowledge, identifying the common patterns, and sharing them widely with the rest of the world. (MXE)
Ultimately, this remembering process is about revisiting what makes us fundamentally human. That experience can be quite jolting, especially for those of us who immerse ourselves in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, often neglecting to deal with our overall well-being. (MXF)
This past week, I was reminded over and over and over again of the things that make us human. It's left me humble and moved. (MXG)
My Internet access will be shaky again for the next few days, but I will post about India and my new experiences here in Ethiopia when I can. In the meantime, enjoy my pictures from India, which are almost up-to-date and which tell at least a small part of the story. I've also got some video, which I'll upload when I'm back in the States. (MXH)
/blueoxen/ldm | Posted at 1:37am
Sat, Mar 01, 2008
Patna, Day One #
I went to sleep exhausted and happy last night, and woke up five hours later. I'm not sure if I'm still jetlagged, or if my adrenaline is running on overdrive. No matter. These early mornings have been wonderful for reflection and resetting. (MWY)
My original plan was to leave at 6am for the new resource center in Muzzafarpur. Last year, the LDM community here in India decided that having a physical space would really help them keep in touch with each other and share knowledge. They're in the process of launching three of these, one here in Patna, one in Muzzafarpur, and one in Ranchi, where I'll be heading later this afternoon. Muzzafarpur is a hub that leads to many places in the state of rural Bihar, which makes it an ideal location. I was going to get a feel for the area and the space itself. (MWZ)
Muzzafarpur is about a two hour drive from here if traffic is good. Unfortunately, traffic has not been good, thanks to ongoing construction and generally horrible road conditions, and I need to be at the airport by early afternoon, so we decided to change plans. I'll get a chance to visit the resource center in Ranchi tomorrow. It's probably a blessing in disguise, because I'll get to participate in the last day of the Patna workshop, and I'm looking forward to spending more time with the leaders here. (MX0)
I feel lucky to be spending so much time in Bihar. It's the poorest state here in India, with high crime rates and low education, a product of bad luck and leadership. 60 percent of the people here in Patna do not have toilets. Yet there's an unmistakable vibrancy to this city. The poverty here is blatant, but not overwhelming. When I walked around North Philadelphia last year, I felt deflated, like all hope had been squeezed out long ago, and that was in a neighborhood that was supposedly turning around. Here, I feel alive. Maybe it's because my experience here has been so sheltered, colored by the protective sheath of my guides. Maybe it's because I'm spending so much time with such inspiring local leaders, people who are out in the field every day trying to make other people's lives better, people who could have left long ago like so many others in their position, but stayed because this is their home, and they love it. Maybe it's because there are some small signs of turnaround here in Patna and that a sense of optimism is slowly creeping in. Maybe it's because the people here simply appreciate what it means to live. (MX1)
NarendraGupta and CherylFrancisconi wanted to check out some Madhubani artwork, a regional specialty that consists of intricate line drawings and colors on canvas and cloth, so SanjayPandey took us to the shopping district. While there, I escaped for a bit to explore the area and get a feel for the street life. The roads here are mesmerizing, especially here in Patna where the streets are bumpy and narrow, roundabouts are everywhere, and the traffic consists of a panoply of pedestrians, bicyclists, rickshaws, cars, trucks, dogs, cows, and the occasional monkey. (MX2)
Afterward, we drove to the Mahatma Ghandi bridge, said to the be the longest river bridge in the world, which spans the Ganga River. It wasn't far, but it took about an hour to get there, as we navigated horrendous traffic and road conditions and breathed in enough carbon monoxide to kill a small animal. I wouldn't have traded that experience for the world. Seeing the Ganges first-hand, a river with so much history and cultural significance, was awe-inspiring, even in the dark and fog. (MX4)
Cheryl, Narendra, and I had dinner at the hotel, where we enjoyed good food, my first drop of booze on this trip, and great conversation. Narendra is fascinating, and his stories are adventurous and inspiring. As I get to know him better, it's becoming more and more apparent that I'll need to devote an entire blog post just to him. (MX6)
All of my meals so far have been in hotels, on planes, or catered, and while the food has been excellent, I'm starting to get antsy. Prior to coming here, several of my more worldly friends, who know my adventurous tastes, told me not to worry so much about what or where I eat. I was cautious, however, primarily because I want to be at my best for this whole trip. Caution is starting to lose to curiosity, however. Cheryl is starting to get a sense of how I like to eat, and she's been tempting me with stories of street food and Ethiopian cuisine. I am having way too much fun. (MX7)
/blueoxen/ldm | Posted at 5:48pm
